As the sales of the Gonzo Harness increase, there are other applications coming to light (pun intended) for modifications that other riders are making to their bikes. Also I have now developed a plug and play harness that will plug in-between your stock harness and your headlamp. This Headlight Harness will take 98% of the amperage off of the poorly designed starter button and run the headlight straight off of the battery. The starter button and hi/lo switch will only be used to trip a hi or low relay and a full charging voltage will be directed to the headlight without the voltage drops across these switches. Results should be no more failed starter switches due to overloads, and theoretically brighter light output.. This harness can be equipped with or without auxiliary light leads which can be used to drive other options like GPS, Radar Detectors, Power Ports, Cigarette Lighters, etc. Another application is for adding the Stebil Air horn for a louder wakeup call for those butt wipes on the cell phone while driving and nearly running you down.

Click for each harness type and get yours today!

The Original Gonzo Lightbar Wiring Harness | The Gonzo Stebil Air Horn Harness | The New Gonzo Headlight Harness
The New Gonzo Hydra Harness

Why a Gonzo Harness?

Additional lights can be an excessive drain on stock wiring harnesses that were not designed for the additional load. In some instances, these additional loads can cause catastrophic failures on stock harnesses and in particular starter switches. The starter switches on Honda brands in particular are known to fail from owners hooking up additional accessories and wiring them into the headlight circuit so they only operate when the headlight is on. The starter button is part of the headlight circuit and passes current to the headlight when the button is not depressed. When depressed, the headlight goes out and the voltage is directed to a starter relay.

Additional loads on the headlight circuit cause excessive current through the starter button contacts which causes heat build-up that melts the plastic holding these contacts in place.
Eventually the switch will be compromised and leave a rider stranded. I have fixed multiple Honda switches in the past that have made this error, some while on long rides away from home.

Take for instance the average and most common 55W driving lights. You add two to your bike for a combined 110Watts. Ohms Laws tell us that Power (110W) divided by Voltage (12V) will give us the current draw for these lights. So for a true 110Watts at an average of 12 Volts DC we are drawing about 9.1 Amps through the starter switch to run these on top of the headlight current.

The relay isolates the stock harness from any real current draw, taking voltage directly through a fused battery connection and passing it to the lights. This makes for a brighter light since switches are not in the circuit. Switches cause resistance and ultimately current loss and a dimmer bulb. A water-tight fuse holder is equipped with a 15 AMP fuse for light bar harnesses, and 30 amps for headlight harnesses.

Switches can be added by splicing them into the ground circuit of some of my harnesses to give a rider total control of when the lights are used. Disabling the ground to the relay through a switch stops the relay
from working and eliminates the possibility of shorting an exposed hot wire running around the
frame and tank. I have mounted these switches on the steering neck covers, side covers, handlebar switches, and brake cylinder switches.

The trigger wire and both light wires are sleeved in chrome braid and heat shrunk on
each end. This makes the visible wiring aesthetically pleasing. Additional sleeves are provided to
dress the wires coming out of the auxiliary lights. If your auxiliary lights come with two wires (Hot and Ground) connect the ground wire to the base mount of the light and the hot wire to my harness. The remainder of the harness is encased in black wire loom and taped at all wire exit points.

The headlight trigger wire hooked to the stock harness draws minimal current, just enough to
trip the relay so it will pass the battery voltage to the lights, saving your harness and starter switch.
When the headlight goes out while cranking the engine, the auxiliary lights will go out as well.

See what customers are saying:

• Cecil in Alabama - Gonz, the harness I got from you 3 years ago is super.
• Tom in North Carolina - The Gonzo Harness Rocks!! Almost plug and play except for the battery connection!
• Xray in Witchita - You know, I told you that I wired mine up based on the write up on your website, right.
  I think that it's kinda funny that I saw you were selling a harness for $40ish....I thought, "well, sheeiitt...
  I can do that for much less.....what is it, a relay...some terminals...heat shrink...and a couple of lengths of wire?

  Well, I did it, no problem. I had a few terminals and things from other projects, so all I had to buy was the
  relay...and crap, I didn't have the right gauge wire, so I bought that...needed some heat shrink, bought
  that...oh, yeah...needed a couple of diodes...ran out of tape...wasn't happy with some of my terminals, so
  I bought a few packs of those...damn, ran out of butane for my soldering iron, had to go back for that.

  Anway, all in all...I spent about $35ish on it....